A bay window is usually the best feature in a room, and dressing one well makes a real difference. It is also the trickiest window to get right, because the curtains have to negotiate corners.
Know which bay you have
The approach differs by shape, so identify yours first.
A square or box bay projects straight out with two 90-degree corners and three flat faces. A splayed or angled bay has corners of roughly 135 degrees, giving a softer shape. A curved or bow bay is a continuous arc, common in Victorian and Edwardian houses. A five-sided bay has four shallow corners and is more common than people realise.
Measure the angle at each corner with a protractor or an angle finder. Do not assume they are equal — in older houses they very often are not, and a bespoke bay pole is made to the angles you supply.
Your three main options
A bay curtain pole
The most attractive solution and usually the one people want. A bay pole is either supplied with adjustable elbow joints, or bent to your exact measurements before dispatch.
The thing to understand is how curtains behave on one. Rings cannot pass around a corner joint, so a bay pole is normally dressed with curtains that stack at the outer ends and, if you want the bay to close fully, a separate pair per face. Some systems use a bypass bracket that allows rings to pass, but the movement is never as smooth as on a straight run.
Best for: bays where curtains are mostly decorative, or where you are happy with a curtain per face.
A bay curtain track
Less of a feature, far more practical. A track can be bent to a smooth continuous curve, and gliders will travel around the bends without catching. That means a single pair of curtains can draw the full width of the bay.
Corded bay tracks are excellent here — one pull closes the whole bay evenly.
Best for: bays where curtains are drawn every day, and curved or bow bays where a smooth arc matters.
A pole with an integrated track
The best of both. From the room it reads as a traditional pole with rings and finials; behind it, a concealed track carries the curtains around the bends smoothly. More expensive, but it solves the central compromise.
Best for: period rooms where you want the look of a pole and the function of a track.
Measuring a bay
Measure each face separately along the line where the pole or track will sit, not at sill level — in a splayed bay these differ.
Record every corner angle. Note the return at each end, which is how far the pole extends past the bay onto the flat wall. Allow 15–20cm where you can, so curtains stack clear of the glass.
Check the drop at several points across the bay. Floors are rarely level, and a difference of 2–3cm across a wide bay is common. If you are going floor length, measure at each face and use the shortest.
Finally, look for obstructions — window openers, radiators below the sill, and whether there is enough clearance between the pole and the ceiling if the bay has coving.
Practical points people miss
Bay poles and tracks almost always need a bracket at or near each corner. The joint is the weakest point, and unsupported corners will droop.
Think about where curtains stack when open. In a shallow bay there may not be enough wall at the ends, and the curtains will sit over the glass. If so, consider a curtain per face, or a lighter fabric that stacks more tightly.
If a radiator sits under the bay, floor-length curtains will block the heat. Sill-length curtains, or a track set forward of the radiator, avoid that.
Getting it right
Bay windows are worth spending time on. Send us your face measurements, corner angles and a photograph, and we will tell you which system suits your bay and what to order.